Here’s HFM’s round-up of the best shows from the second day at London Fashion Week….
Alice Archer
If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Alice Archer’s 5th collection for London Fashion Week stayed true to her unique signature and was no less enchanting. Intricate floral embroideries on silky dresses, kimonos and blouses mixed with gentle tailoring. Ultra feminine and luxurious, her artful stitchwork was a ‘winter fruit cocktail of cranberries, elderberries and oranges’ which sat nicely with delicate flowers like snowdrops, anemones, myrtle and winter jasmine.
This season she introduced techniques such as sequin work, silk shading and printing on top of her intricate needlework. Separates came in wide legged trousers, a voluminous cape and a decadent wrap coat. Fine tulle was layered over prints and girlish details like ribbons and cute covered buttons keep things light and pretty. Colours were equally luxe: rich burgundies, mossy green and classic black, lifted with pale pastel pink and ivory.
The AW18 collection was apparently influenced by a winter walk in Somerset, the stuff of childhood memories. The Alice Archer world is one of timeless beauty, no trends, no frills, no fuss; just beautiful unique pieces which any woman would covert.
Molly Goddard
Beauty
90’s Britney poker straight hair is back and it’s cooler than ever. Lived-in, textured tresses have become a staple backstage, but if super hairstylist Luke Hersheson’s new creation is anything to go by, we could be seeing a major shift. ‘Rocker Nick Cave and Britney Spears rolled into one’ was the inspiration behind the ironed-out tresses backstage. To make hair extra polished, Hersheson combed through John Frieda's Original Serum (it gives the most incredible sheen he told us). Then he sprayed John Frieda Root Booster all over whilst hair was still wet – it acts as a holding spray to keep fly-aways at bay and maintain a super sleek finish.
Halpern
Beauty
So it’s happened. If you needed anymore proof that there’s an 80’s revival, feast your eyes on the blown-out pony via Halpern. Think ‘hard disco glamour but the girl has been out partying all night and the evidence is clearly in her hair – there’s an explosion of volume’, explained hair guru Eamon Hughes for Sam McKnight. Crimping, tight curls, poker straight strands and back-combing x10 – all featured in the low pony. How, we hear you ask? Well luckily for the models, no hair was harmed in the making of this. Their mane was tightly wrapped into a bun while masses of pre-styled extensions were clipped into the hair.
Toga
London Fashion Week is synonymous with fresh, young talent, and nobody embodies this more than Japanese brand Toga. After bursting onto the scene with its AW14 LFW debut, the brand has gone from strength to strength. For AW18, the aesthetic remains complex and avant garde, with a huge variety fabrics showcased, including sequins, pleated plastic, patent leather, lace and brocade. Each look involves new styling tricks that will no doubt be spotted on the street style set next season- think scarves draped over the waistbands of jeans, detachable water-proof hoods, open-back chunky cable knits and oversized layered medallion earrings and necklaces. This is definitely the sort of desk-to-disco wardrobe you've always yearned for...
Beauty
Far flung from last season’s tinsel embellished lashes, lead makeup pro Sado Aito gave us a masterclass in nailing 'the best version of me makeup’. Strong brows took centre stage, as model’s arches were precisely filled in then brushed up and bushy for a ‘polished yet confident’ vibe. In other exciting news, we got to see NARs new Mahe Eyeshadow Quad in action (out this autumn) – think creamy textures and wearable shimmers that buff onto lids for an extra glowy finish.
Osman
Osman's presentation took a more fluid approach with the collection quite literally coming alive in a house party set-up. Models danced amongst scattered flowers strewn across the carpeted floor, while empty coupes and bottles of wine sat atop vintage glass side tables. This disco-era attitude was key to the attire too - think sequins, brightly coloured fur, 80's taffeta dresses and lurex all made for shimmying and shaking. Topped off with electric blue neon eyeshadow and afros aplenty, it was a collection that was a definite crowd-pleaser.
Gareth Pugh
Beauty
Who better to reignite our love of OTT nail art than Gareth Pugh. CND brand ambassador Marian Newman, aka, the most in-demand manicurist backstage, showcased her most lust-worthy handiwork. With not one, not two but six very different designs. Our favourite? A textured glossy black that was created to look like scrap metal. For a similar 3D effect, Marian advised ripping up crumpled bin bags into tiny pieces and adhering them to your nails. Wait a few minutes till they've dried, then add layers of glossy black polish – they may night last a full week, but they'll look pretty jazzy on a night out.
House of Holland
With front-row regulars including Alexa Chung, Pixie Geldof and Daisy Lowe the show kicked off in the new Topshop show space in London’s Covent Garden. Models strutted to a killer sound track, with tunes including Huggin & Kissin by Big Black Delta, wearing clompy Dr. Martens style boots reimagined with neon laces and jewelled straps.
Key elements included tailoring in British wools deconstructed with exposed zips, varsity outerwear and printed woven silk dresses. While camouflage prints were seen across silky trousers and oversized puffer jackets, along with florals and tartans - all identifying key moments from House of Holland's history and the brand's 10 year archive.
Burberry
With Cara Delevingne back on the catwalk and Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, Sienna Miller, Lily James, Jourdan Dunn and Alexa Chung perched front row, this show was always going to grab the headlines. Coupled with the fact that this was creative director Christopher Bailey’s last show for the brand after 17 years at the helm.
Cara, absent from the catwalks since 2016, appeared in a floor-grazing rainbow fur coat as the Communard’s song “Don’t Leave Me This Way” blared. The designer brought together key faces and moments from Burberry’s heritage that encapsulated the effortlessly cool look he’s known for. Dedicated to LGBTQ, model and activist Adwoa Aboah opened in a rainbow-covered skirt. Puffa jackets and high-top trainers came with rainbow stripes and a trench coat and blanket cape in technicolour versions of the famous Burberry check.
The show ended with a standing ovation not for the clothes but for Bailey, who without question, revived the brand and played a major role in putting LFW back on the map.
Markus Lupfer
This season the Markus Lupfer girl breaks the rules - the bar was free-flowing, the music loud and the models adorned in sequins and sparkles. Incase we needed a little more proof that statement ear candy and teddy bear coats aren’t going anywhere for AW18, Lupfer dazzled us with diamanté details and floral embellishment - a wardrobe bursting with treasures.
His latest collection is a celebration of clash and contrast - texture, colour, print and silhouette but all brought together harmoniously with elegance and signature Lupfer embellishment. The mix was effortless: a sliver of sequins under a heavy knit, oversized faux-fur coats cinched with flower encrusted belts and finished with collarbone grazing earrings; paying homage to a girl who adores the eclectic and the chic.
New for the brand is the Scottish lambswool knits in various designs in autumnal shades of toffee brown, chestnut and sage. Hand painted prints brought depth to the collection whilst high shine floral jacquard added glamour to tailored suiting. The shoes were stacked in decadence; fringed by the toes and cuffed by diamonds at the ankle with a flower detailed, faux-fur front - these are shoes to keep you dancing all winter long.
Markus doesn’t miss a trick when it comes to embellishment, even the models hair partings were frosted in bling but the make-up was kept fresh and youthful. The fashion formula is part luxurious fantasy, part pared-back reality - all sealed with a dash of sparkle.
