He is known for pushing the envelope, last season staging an Amy Winehouse homage just months after the singer’s death.
In Paris this week, Jean Paul Gaultier once again explored controversial territory.
The 60-year-old had based his Haute Couture show on an unlikely muse – troubled British rocker Pete Doherty, who earlier this year made his acting debut as a 19th-century figure in arthouse drama Confessions of a Child of the Century.
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And the performance first seen at the Cannes Film Festival bowled Gaultier over.
"I said my god he is so seductive, a decadent dandy," said the designer, who was on the jury at Cannes, adding: "And that's my collection."
The result was a theatrical, androgynous affair that paid tribute to the silver screen.
High taffeta collars were topped off with 19th-century top hats, while a projector beamed images onto one model's dress as scenes from old movies played behind her.
Andrej Pejic, the male model, who has taken catwalks by storm, modelling female clothing added to the air of androgynous glamour in a sheer black top that revealed his chest.